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Neroli: Ingredient Definition
Citrus notes have always been a integral part of the perfume story. The instant impact of fresh and invigorating cologne was the earliest manifestations of perfumery. Citrus fruits relinquish their juice and zest with relative. Citrus is cleansing, brightening, mood-enhancing, sunshine in a bottle summer vibes. Men and women alike loved the bracing notes. Looking at some of the earliest compositions from established vintage perfume houses, there is normally something citrus, something musky and something fougère.
Neroli is the Queen of Citrus notes, despite its origin story of creamy redolent blossoms of the bitter orange tree, citrus aurantium. The carefully hand-picked blooms are steam distilled to produce the pungent and distinctive neroli. The white waxen scent, streaked with meaty green and soapy solar beauty is a adult, seductive citric-floral experience.
Few perfume ingredients have the warm sensual impact of neroli. The bitter orange tree has an abundance of scented gifts; orange blossom water is distilled using solvent extraction of the blossom, bitter orange oil comes from the citrus peel and petitgrain is distilled form twigs and leaves of the tree. An extraordinary range of marmalade-infused materials from just the one amazing tree.
Citrus notes vary in style, scent, impact and nuance. From fresh and piquant to dry, sweet and stimulating. Lemons, limes, bergamot, oranges, mandarins, grapefruits, pomelos, Buddha’s Hands, kumquats, finger limes, yuzu and a vast array of geographical hybrids. They have been traditionally used as top notes in perfumery, the smaller size and volatility of their molecules evaporate off the skin quickly, fizzing around the senses, creating an instantly cool brisk halo. They set a scene of bright uplifting radiance behind which, the scent-defining heart notes and deeper, richer base notes prepare to open and mingle, all three stages mingling with immense satisfaction.
In the world of contemporary perfumery, citrus notes have become stars in their own right. Perfumers creating scents that pay homage to the multifaceted nature of these varied fruits. Bigarade from Frédéric Malle, Neroli Portofino from Tom Ford, Le Labo’s Neroli 36 and Boadicea’s own glorious Lannosea, a recent launch, inspired by one of Boadicea’s warrior daughters, an unusual dramatic perfume topped with a delicious confit of lemon accord with dates, coffee, Litsea cubeba and elderflower, luminescing with a glowing neroli/orange blossom note at its heart.
Neroli has big beautiful impact but rarely needs to shout in order to attract attention. Its role is to illuminate, refresh and brighten. It is the olfactory equivalent of profoundly still summer days, swooning beneath trees shaken gently by the wind.
What Does Neroli Smell Like?
But what exactly does neroli smell like? And why has it become such a sought after and obsessive ingredient of both masculine and feminine perfumery?
Neroli takes it name from Anne Marie de la Trémouille, Duchess of Bracciano and Princess of Nerola, an ambitious, trend setter in the late seventeenth century. She adored the odours of bitter orange and famously soaked her kid leather gloves in the oil. This served to beautifully perfume the air around as she moved her hands and to help mask any lingering odours in the leather from the pungent tanning processes and stinky manufacturing process of animal hides.
Once sniffed and worn, the scent of neroli is unforgettable, either as supporting player or hero/heroine in perfumes. Its adaptive intensity allows perfumers to create a dynamic and multifarious showcase of compositions.
The soapy floral richesse that defines neroli, is shot through with a complex array of variations and how its scent profile depends hugely on our tolerance and love for such solar efflorescence. Citrus scents and their reflected components are loved and loathed in equal measure. It is accepted that such perfumes are hugely popular in warmer climes, especially in the Mediterranean.
It is said that Napoleon could run through sixty bottles of cologne a month, a bespoke recipe of citrus, woods and herbs. An astonishing fact all considering he was exhorted his wife the Empress Josephine not to wash before he returned from military campaigns and she would smear the walls and furnishings in dense, writhing amounts of animal musks.
As one might imagine, the odour profile of neroli is complex and unique, presenting a diverse palette of nuanced odours, with an atmospheric shifting longevity. A whiff of bitter marmalade and metallic white blooms provoke a clean soapy aura with hints of evergreen terpenes and intoxicating solar radiance dirtied up with indolic molecules and wicked honey. It is claimed that neroli is one of the zealously guarded ingredients in Coca-Cola, but this is unlikely to be substantiated any time soon.
The ability of neroli not only to glow gloriously on its own, but illuminate and enhance materials is invaluable, hence its ubiquity in perfume compositions. As an odiferous floral material, neroli is endlessly fascinating, shifting and travelling with grace and volatile beauty.
Is Neroli a Seductive Scent?
Yes, undeniably so. It is why it is so desired by neroli lovers and those seeking deeper interaction with their perfumes. Neroli can be sultry, dirty, resinous and darkly animalic. Seducing with a mix of bawdy confidence and nighttime sophistication, neroli opens olfactive doors and windows onto our private thoughts, suggesting shadows flickering over loved skin and how we consider the role of intimacy and human connections.
Neroli is a incredibly versatile material, pairing well with musks, roses, gourmand notes, woods, smoke and resins, its dark charms and adaptability becoming more obvious and wonderful. It is no wonder neroli is a feature of a large number of Boadicea the Victorious’ charismatic scents.
The Power of Neroli
Whether you are seeking a more profound sensuality, impact or private mystery, oud scents suggest enigma and moreish osmosis, making a strong scented statement, adding infectious delight to even the most complex compositions.
Explore on your own or through our informative fragrance sections and discover how this treasured material can transform your perfume wardrobe, one sensual spritz at a time.
Neroli As Masculine And Feminine
Originally considered something of a bracing cologne note, it is the solar magnificence of neroli that now defines its appeal. The adaptive and innovative world of perfumery has continually drawn upon citrus notes to refresh and bring radiance to a whole world of oud considered neither defiantly masculine nor classically feminine. There is perfumed magic in the sensual generosity of this creamy bitter orange note. Neroli is no longer defined by gender. It simply performs exquisitely, in any setting required of it.
Scent of Seduction for Women
Seduction is a deeply personal concept. Privately we all harbour definitions and desires we might want to keep to ourselves. Perfumery can echo this. For many, the most intoxicating perfumes have no need to shout to draw attention to themselves, unless this is your thing. They whisper, captivating through layers: a radiant, inviting top notes, definitive and confident heart notes, and a lingering sillage of effect. Neroli is an addictive, striking note, each stage of its olfactive blooming creating a seemingly endless variety of effects and odours.
A whoosh of glacial metallic notes at the top of Enthrone, swirl in ecclesiastical incense, cardamom and a pop of pink pepper. Oud is a heart note contrasted with a solar flare of neroli illuminating the perfume like a lantern glowing in a mysterious cottage drawing ghosts to the light. A base note of cypriol is inky and vaporous leaving a charred, indolic residue suggesting majesty of the royal anointing of kings and queens.
In Valiant, created to celebrate the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Horse, sandalwood is beautifully rendered to support and complement a joyful heart of intense floral notes such as orange blossom, neroli, Indian jasmine and cherry blossom. It is a flirtatious and daring mix of notes and effects.
Rose Sapphire is a animalic rose, wrapped in the singed liquorice leather of immortelle, a rush of noble neroli and a big dose of Hedione that adds scintillating sparkle particularly to the lipstick-tinted rose. In the drydown, the rose softens, complimented beautifully by jasmine, lily, and magnolia and shot through with orange, cardamom and the unusual addition of curcuma or turmeric. This distinctive spice is a perfectly earthy partner to the persimmon orange glow of neroli.